Johannesburg attracts people from all over the continent with one sole purpose: to shop till they drop. To that end the city has more than 20 malls to choose from, but the best atmosphere by far is found in Rosebank, which has plenty of outdoor areas to break the monotony of mall shopping as well as a good selection of essentials such as travel agents, music, book, fashion, and crafts shops . The rooftop at Rosebank Mall, which is open every Sunday and public holidays from 9:30am to 5pm, hosts the city's best market. The largest flea market, and a great deal closer than tacky Bruma Lake (it's 3 min. west of Sandton), is located at the Randburg Waterfront (tel. 011/789-5052; www.rwaterfront.co.za). The flea market has a selection of 350 stalls, and the Waterfront has plenty to entertain kids, but if you have a critical eye, you're likely to return to your hotel room exhausted and empty-handed.

City Center & Surrounds -- The Newtown Cultural Precinct has a small market that operates daily, but the best shop in Newtown is the Bus Factory (1 President St.; tel. 011/834-9569; Tues-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat 10am-4pm), located in an old transport depot that was revamped as part of the regeneration of Newtown. Administered by the Craft Council, under the excellent curatorship of Susan Sellschop, the Bus Factory showcases the finest crafts pieces available in the country. Other places of interest in the city include Diagonal Street -- look for Sotho blankets -- and the Mai Mai Bazaar under the M1. The latter sells mostly to the Zulu community, and you're best off visiting here with a guide.

Less than 1km (just over a half-mile) from Newtown (follow Jeppe St. into Fordsburg) is the Oriental Plaza shopping center, where Johannesburg's shrewd Indian traders barter and cajole. Look for fabrics, cotton clothing, brasswares, and, of course, spices. This is also a great place to sample samoosas, fried meat- or vegetable-filled pastry triangles. A stone's throw from the Plaza is the Bag Factory (10 Minaar St.; tel. 011/834-9181; www.bagfactoryart.org.za), an art gallery where standards vary but prices are more than reasonable. Also known as the Fordsburg Artists' Studios (FAS), it was a dilapidated ex-bag-factory building until being converted to a multicultural studio facility for professional artists.

Northern and Northwestern Suburbs -- Rural Craft (tel. 011/788-5821), in Rosebank's Mutual Gardens, Shop 42E (next to the House of Coffee), markets goods on behalf of the Crafts Association of South Africa, and all profits are returned to the communities. Also in Mutual Gardens is Afrika Dijalo (tel. 011/447-9304), where you can find a good selection of arts and crafts from all over Africa. In nearby Mutual Square is CD Warehouse, where staff will assist with a selection of African music. Fashionistas looking for distinctive "where-did-you-get-that?" designer items need to head for The Zone @Rosebank to The Space (Lower Level; tel. 011/327-3640) or to Stoned Cherrie (Upper Level; tel. 011/447-9629) for the best Afro-chic threads in town. For a more serious selection of South African art, visit the Everard Read Gallery [ST] (6 Jellicoe Ave., Rosebank; tel. 011/788-4805), considered the best commercial art gallery in the country, but make sure your wallet is bulging. More world-class collectors' pieces by South African artists are available at the Kim Sacks Gallery (153 Jan Smuts Ave., Parkwood; tel. 011/447-5804), and the nearby Goodman Gallery (163 Jan Smuts Ave.; tel. 011/788-1113). Back in Sandton, take a look at Gallery on the Square (in Sandton City Mall; tel. 011/784-2847) -- particularly the beautifully crafted Nesta Nala beer vessels, which will run you anywhere between R1,850 ($230) and R2,100 ($260). Then head for the African Feelings Artworks, a gallery 100% owned and operated by black South African women who have created a vital link between rural artists and crafters and commercial buyers (154 Linden St., Sandown; tel. 011/884-1148.